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But on the board, you practice.
And when you stand on the board and ride a wave...
You’re free to enjoy the ride. And you have to live in the moment, because if you spend too much time thinking about the last wipeout or the next wave, you’ll miss the magic of the moment.
And even if this moment is a painful one, you know you’ll be okay, because there’s always another chance to get up and ride again.
I sat back, looking at the words on my computer screen. They weren’t pretty or poetic, but they were the truest thing I knew.
Feeling a sense of release, of peace but also of purpose, I relaxed and ate my breakfast until Jacinda came into the bakery. She waved at me and then ordered breakfast.
My heart beat quickly with nerves, because I knew this was it. If Jacinda didn’t think this was good enough, I didn’t have any more to offer.
It felt like forever until she was walking my way with coffee and a donut in hand. “Looks like you’ve been hard at work,” she said, nodding at my computer before setting down her food and drink.
“I have,” I said, trying to keep calm. “I’m excited to hear what you think about my mission statement.”
Her eyes lit up with excitement. “Can you show me?”
I nodded, spinning the computer on the table so she could see it.
She scanned the computer, her eyes tracking back and forth over the words until a smile slowly formed on her lips. She tapped the track pad with her finger and turned it toward me, with a new line typed and highlighted at the bottom of the page.
“Diego, this is your motto.”
I stared at the words, hardly believing they were mine, but feeling them on a deep soul level.
Enjoy the magic of the moment.
My throat got tight, as I realized I’d done that with April. I’d enjoyed every second I had with her. That was all I could do.
Jacinda’s voice almost startled me out of my thoughts. “Are you ready for all the work this is going to take?”
I cleared the emotion from my throat. “Absolutely.”
* * *
Jacinda and I worked in the bakery for hours, creating a business plan for Diego’s Surf School. I was mentally tired, but happy I had an entire document on my computer dedicated to creating a life I wanted to live. One where I could truly enjoy the moment.
We agreed to meet again the next weekend, and then I left, getting in my car. I was about to call Xander and Terrell to see if they wanted to hit the skate park when a call from a number I didn’t recognize came through the speaker system.
I got calls every so often from flyers I had around town for surf lessons, so I hit the button on the dash to answer the call. “Hi, this is Diego,” I said.
“Diego? It’s Sadie.”
My heart lurched with her name. She and April had been so close, but for the last few weeks, April had been eating lunch in the cafeteria alone. “Uh, hi, Sadie. What’s up?”
“I... was hoping you’d give me a surf lesson?”
That was even more surprising than getting a call from her. “You want to learn to surf?” She really didn’t seem like the surfing type.
“Yeah, my parents want me to have more extracurricular activities, and I thought of you. I hope that’s okay. I know you and April are off but—”
“It’s totally fine,” I said, not wanting to dig up even more pain. “I can’t really do much in the water with my wrist.”
“But we can do some practicing on shore, right?” she asked.
“Yeah, I mean, it is easier to stand in the water once you get your form down on land...” And I was excited to give a surf lesson now that I had my official mission and motto in place. “I’m free in a couple hours if you want to come over?”
