The tree-lined and broad Boulevard de Clichy, long a haven for artists still oozed with bohemian life. Strolling became much easier on the wider sidewalks.
Giselle pointed out where the original cabaret in Paris, Le Chat Noir, once operated. “Those exciting bohemian times have disappeared here, and now the place is a bar and hotel.” She sighed. “I wish I could time travel back to the days when Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec lived here, and Emile Goudeau gathered his avant-garde group of poets and intellectuals who shaped the artistic and anarchic spirit of Montmartre. Just imagine, Nora, how that life must have been.”
Nora grinned at Giselle’s enthusiasm as she brought those years to life. They shared a few chuckles as Giselle mused how the numerous sex shops that now dotted the street transitioned the atmosphere from artistic rebellion to commercialized taboo.
“I’m not a prude,” Nora said, “but I’ve been kind of shocked on my last visits to see how many of these stores have opened.”
“Alors, there’s even one with a book section,” Giselle said, laughing. “Literature for everyone!”
They passed the iconic Moulin Rouge, and Giselle entertained with hilarious and racy stories about long ago experiences at the nightclub. “When you live here as long as I do, nothing surprises any more. Although I must admit, I have not darkened the door of this place for decades. It really exists for the tourists now but still gives them a taste of how things once were.”
The vibe changed to sophistication on the wide Boulevard Haussmann, with its cream-colored stone structures and wrought-iron balconies. The street was lined with commercial buildings and boutique shops offering clothing and home accessories. Car traffic became heavy.
“This is the magic of Paris. Every part of the city has its own distinctive look and character,” Giselle said. “Polished and chic here. You will find hidden charms down many historic covered passageways, remnants of the nineteenth century.”
“Chloe has taken me to some of those. I can spend hours browsing all the fascinating shops one finds. Some sell the most obscure items, like vintage fountain pens and tin soldiers,” said Nora.
They reached the elegant building that housed the high-end department store Galeries Lafayette, with its breathtaking stained-glass dome ceiling. Giselle suggested they go to the rooftop terrace to enjoy the panoramic view and have some lunch.
“Let’s have a bit of a rest and look at the windows later. I’ve worked up a small appetite. How about you?” she asked. “Or would you like to do some retail therapy first?”
Nora laughed. “I’ve done a fair bit of damage here on past trips. I’m fine to have a light lunch now.”
They walked through Galeries Lafayette and admired the impossible-to-ignore ceiling. In the center of the store, they stopped to gasp at the eighty-two-foot Christmas tree that was decorated dramatically each year. Around the world, people waited to see what the new theme would be and photos were posted internationally. This year, the tree featured thousands of LED lights programmed to create a mesmerizing display of patterns and colors.
Giselle led them to the elevator that went to the restaurant and they were fortunate to get a window table. Nora commented the panoramic view, all the way across rooftops to the Eiffel Tower, was as delicious as their meal.
Afterward, they spent some time on the street taking in the always dazzling and imaginative festive windows celebrating the store’s 130thholiday season. Each of the eleven windows showcased a whimsical winter scene with a futuristic twist.
“Simply overwhelming!” Nora gushed. “It’s going to take a few return trips to take in all those details!”
* * *
“Merde!” Giselle exclaimed as her phone rang again on their way home. “Sorry, I have to take this call.”
She handed the leash to Nora, who took charge of Atticus but this time with a twinge of nerves. She wondered if he was just being nice the first time she had taken charge.
Now he stopped and turned to look at her. Their eyes met as if he was contemplating the situation, and then he calmly carried on. Nora felt she had received his approval.
When they reached the foot of Montmartre, they hopped on the funicular to avoid the climb. Atticus showed no hesitation.
“Obviously a seasoned pro,” Nora commented and Giselle nodded.
“I’m sure you will take this alternate route many times during your stay,” Giselle teased. “Those stairs can be killers.”
“Agreed. But I plan to get used to them,” Nora said. “If nothing else, Atticus will get me out every day. There are so many arrondissements I haven’t explored.”
“The more you walk the streets of Paris, the more you feel its rhythm … its heartbeat. To me the city is a never-ending love affair. I can see you are already beginning to fall under its charm, especially since you’ve been here before and have had a taste of the love potion it offers.”
Giselle’s voice caressed the air. Nora thought,She makes Paris sound like a seductress.
After wandering over to Rue Lepic, Giselle said she was going to meet a friend for a coffee. Nora declined the invitation to join them.
“Thanks so much for today. I enjoyed the walk, the chat, the lunch, the windows … everything! And I’m so happy that Atticus is relaxed with me.” She reached down and gave his head a rub before handing the leash back to Giselle.
Atticus’ little stub of a tail wagged as mightily as Nora thought it could and that made her smile.
“Well, not to take up all your time… But because I won’t see you after tomorrow, I would love it if you and Olivier and Chloe could join me tonight at Au Lapin Agile for a glass or two of champagne. It is one of my favorite hangouts, and I have someone I would love for you to meet.”
