She nods the whole time I’m talking. “I’m on it.”
The instructor laughs and does a hand signal to get the waves. “Get set, there’s no lineup.”
Peggy stops and gives him a look. “No advice?” He’s given her surfer lingo every time she falls and we go back, so it’s a valid question.
He’s still smiling. “She just gave it to you. She ain’t a kook, follow what she said and you can drop in her wave at the pocket. It will suck you in and hold you in place. This ain’t the ocean, girl.”
Peggy makes me smile with that same intent look she gives everyone leaving her tips. A nod gets us back to whitewater. You gotta start somewhere so I go through the paces until she pops up and is driving her board with her arm. The woman just needs words she can understand to jump into “pro”. I turn closer as we ride down the wave period with both my hands pointing at her with one arm straight out. She laughs but doesn’t take the bow.
The whistle tells us the session is over. We’ve been in more than the hour but there wasn’t a lineup.
Peggy laughs pointing at the waiting line. Alder and Hud are with Jordan and Stella.
“Fuckin’ showoffs.” Stella puts her fist out, so I bump it then Peggy does as we pass them.
I bend to Alder. “Use the shorter board that he recommends. Stay low and do the coffee cup OMBE from the lessons. Once you get in, the wave will keep you there through the next levels.”
He gives me a funny look. “How you know I YouTubed on chopper ride?”
I smile. “Now I know you did, but you’re Alder, LP. You always do your homework. Listen to the instructor but ask when he says words that you don’t know, then just follow what I said.It’s easy if you’re not trying to follow every step he gives.”
He does his one nod. “Thanks you barney explain. Advice for Boss Hud?”
I turn. “You surf?”
His eyes meet mine and I’m stunned that he met mine and he’s got concern in his that’s so pronounced, it’s almost tangible to me three feet away from him. “Before. I didn’t bring the flipper and can’t use the robotic. I got the brace for the pool. I don’t feel it.” That’s why he shows that concern.
“Let Alder get the lesson. I’ll stay with him and explain using your words.” Peggy is a gem.
“Thanks. It shouldn’t take long; he's from Florida and has been everywhere so he knows all but the pool feel.” I sneak a look his way to make sure I’m not giving more than he’s comfortable with. He strikes me as a moody, loner-like perfectionist.
The nod he gives has Peggy nodding. “I got LP. Go hang ten or whatever.”
I laugh at the nut and ask the instructor if we can try Hud’s brace starting on the beginner waves.
A wave of his arm as if he’s opening the pool for us has my eyes rolling. “I don’t think the C-Spring would work without rubber, or something to hold you at the bottom of it.” I say to Hud.
“I was just thinking that it’s one I’m used to but I’d need the board to have a foot placement mat on it. I didn’t expect to surf or I’d have prepared better. The brace has my water shoe, that’s all I had time for. I always surf barefoot but used shoes in a cove in Australia.” It must have been rocky.
Easy enough. I grab a shorty board on the way. “Short works better in the pool. 7’4” or 6” should work for you. Get your balance then follow what I told Alder. It worked for Peggy, stay low and coffee cup to turn you so you’re always at Alder’s side.”
He follows me paddling at the same angle. I forgot to tell him that so I’m glad he pays attention. The whitewater is a mellow roll but it’s good for him to see how his foot will work. He tips so I help. “Stay low, it will help balance you. Bring your arm forward a little when you turn.”
He does and guides his board out in front of me. I hear the laugh and smile. He won’t be concerned anymore. He’s got this.
I ride the wave back to the beginning and roll my hand for the operator to move to intermediate. My bag is by the board stand so I dress quickly and get to the class with LP and Peggy.
Stella points so I look back. Hud definitely has experience. I do the same cheerleader stance with my hands doing the two-handed point with one across my body and the other straight out. He shakes his head rolling on in, like his missing foot is a nightmare someone else lives.
I wait and give Stella the normal words when Peggy murmurs them to Alder. I taught the younger kids how to surf but never had all the words. I surfed by book and movies but never in Santa Monica or wherever the Beverly Hills kids surfed, so I’m lingo deficient. I know some words but Stella isn’t going to care. She’ll be pissed I interrupted the lesson even if she’s a first-class surfer.
The deep laugh behind me has me turned fast. I throw the VP of Teach chin. “Citiali. Glad you’re here. I thought you don’t read everyone.” My voice is lowered so I'm not annoying the Badass surf class.
He nods. “Not usually. Mucimi is close, Nash and Mase are here. I feel Dakota getting closer.” He lowers his voice too
I put my hands up. “They make theno readinghard.”
“Yeah, the older and powerful enhance ability for the rest of us.”
