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I laugh. “Well, you are doing better than Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dum back there.”
Wes laughs as we both stare back at his cousins, who have barely moved from the edge of the beach.
“I guess we should wait for them,” I say.
“Nah, I need a break from them.”
I nod. “All right, so one more dive, and you should be in position. This time, dive down and kick hard until you can’t hold your breath anymore. That should get you on the other side of the swell. Then, we’ll have you up and surfing.”
He laughs.
“And dive,” I say.
We both dive down into the water. When I come up for air, I see that Wes has, too, but he’s going to have to take one or two more dives down to get to where I am. I wait patiently as he does. When he finally reaches me, he is breathing heavily. He’s in decent shape, but the ocean definitely takes a different toll on the body if you aren’t used to it.
“So, why do you want to learn how to surf anyway?” I ask.
“My fiancée. She’s spent many summers here, and if we are going to live here full-time after we get married, I figured I’d better learn how to surf. I know she loves it even if she rarely makes time to surf anymore. I want to be able to do something with her that she enjoys and not look like a total imbecile.”
I nod. “I think you are going to need more than one lesson today to accomplish that.”
“Yeah, well, I was told you’d only do the one.”
“I think I could fit you into my schedule for the next couple of weeks.”
“That would be great.”
I look back to the camera crew, who is growing impatient. “I need to get up on the board to ensure I get paid. After I go, give it your best shot. You’re going to fall if you even get up, but I think that is what they are wanting.”
Wes nods. “Yeah, I figured.”
“But don’t worry; I’ll have you surfing. Just give me a week or two.”
I see the next wave coming. It’s not perfect, but then nothing ever is. I wink at Wes, and I take off with the wave.
I don’t have to think as I surf; I just do. I’ve done this so many times before, and this wave is nothing compared to the larger waves that I often surf. Still, I respect the wave, the ocean. I know that, every time I come out here, I’m putting my life at risk. That this could all be over if I’m not careful. So, I try to keep my thoughts on what I’m doing and not on Sloane. Not on the plan that has practically fallen into my lap.
I reach the shore and jump off the board before I remember that I’m being filmed. I make sure to smile as I kick the board up with my foot and then carry it all the way up the beach. I turn my attention back to Wes, who is sitting on his board, looking completely clueless and completely terrified.
I watch the next wave come, but it is going to be much too strong for him. “Hold off till the next one!” I shout.
He nods and tries to maintain his position as the next wave comes. It really doesn’t matter which wave he tries. I doubt he even manages to stand on the board his first time out.
I watch as another wave begins. “This one, Wes! Start paddling and then try to stand!” I shout.
Wes begins paddling and then starts trying to climb up onto the board. His timing is off, but somehow, he muscles his way up until he is somewhat upright. Then, he immediately falls over as a wave crashes down on him.
He comes up for air a couple of seconds later, looking a bit dazed but otherwise fine. He slowly makes his way back to the beach and then falls to the ground.
“I don’t know how you are able to make that look so easy. I don’t think I’ll ever be able to stand up on the board,” Wes says, panting hard.
“Well, you won’t ever be able to do what I just did unless you plan on devoting your next twenty years to surfing. But I can at least get you upright your next time out.”
I extend my hand to him, and he takes it and stands up.
“Same place tomorrow?” Wes asks.
I glance over at the police cruiser that is creeping by far too slowly, staring at us.
