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"Give me that. " Mama snatched the menu from the table and whipped it open. "Herbed pancakes with wild mushroom butter and pan-fried whitefish--for $21. 95. This is not Italian. My mama, God rest her soul, made a tonno al cartoccio--tuna baked in parchment--that melted in your mouth. "

"Terry has tuna on sale this week, Mama. Ahi, too. And his calamari steaks were beautiful. "

"You are remembering your papas favorite. Calamari ripieni. It takes the very best tomatoes. "

"Johnny from the farmers market promises me red heaven. "

"Calamari and ahi are expensive. "

"We could try it for a night or two--an advertised special. If it doesnt work, we can forget about it. "

There was a knock at the door.

Angie swore under her breath. Mama was close to agreeing. Any little change could send them back to square one.

Lauren walked into the kitchen, clutching her neatly folded apron.

"Good night, Lauren," Angie said. "Lock up on your way out. "

Lauren didnt move. She looked confused somehow, uncertain.

"Thank you, Lauren," Mama said. "Have a nice evening. "

Lauren didnt move.

"What is it?" Angie asked.

"I . . . uh . . . " Lauren frowned. "I can work tomorrow night after all. "

"Great," Angie said, going back to her notes. "See you at five. "

The minute Lauren left, Angie returned to the discussion. "So, Mama, what do you think about upping the prices a little and adding a daily fish special?"

"I think my daughter is trying to change the menu that has been good enough for DeSarias for years. "

"Small changes, Mama. The kind that take us forward in time. " She paused, loading the big gun. "Papa would have approved. "

"He loved my calamari ripieni, its true. " Mama pushed away from the sink and sat down beside Angie. "I remember when your papa bought me the Cadillac. He was so proud of that car. "

"But you wouldnt drive it. "

Mama smiled. "Your papa thought I was crazy, ignoring that beautiful car. So one day he sold my Buick and left the new car keys on the table, along with a note that read: Meet me for lunch. Ill bring the wine. " She smiled. "He knew I had to be pushed into change. "

"I dont want to push too hard. "

"Yes, you do. " Mama sighed. "Your whole life has been about pushing, Angela, getting what you want. " She touched Angies cheek. "Your papa loved that about you, and hed be so proud of you right now. "

Suddenly, Angie wasnt thinking about the menu at all. She was thinking about her father and all the things that she missed about him; the way he hefted her on his shoulders to watch the Thanksgiving Day parade, the way he said prayers with her at night and told silly, meaningless jokes at the breakfast table.

"So," Mama said, her eyes misty, too. "We will try a few specials this week and then we will see. "

"Itll work, Mama. Youll see. Business will really pick up when the ads start. Were the front page of the entertainment section on Sunday. "

"Already more people are coming. I must admit that. Its a good thing you hired that girl. Shes been a good waitress," Mama said. "When you hired her--a redhead--I was sure we were in for trouble, and when you told me about the poor thing needing a dress, I thought--"

"Oh, no. " Angie shot to her feet. "The dance. "

"Whats the matter?"

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