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When she returns, she’s ecstatic. She goes a few more times, riding all the way to the shore then coming back, and I know she’s getting tired. Between the sun and the waves, and adding the physical aspects, it will beat you down.
“Want to take a short break? Maybe grab a snack and water to refuel? I don’t want you getting dehydrated.”
“Yes, that sounds great.”
“Here comes your wave. I’ll meet you on the sand,” I say, and she goes for it. This time, she tries to stand but loses her balance and falls over.
I meet up with her. “You were so damn close.”
She’s breathing heavily. “It felt good, but I just need to get my feet right.”
“There will be plenty of time for that.” I shoot her a wink. Grabbing the board from her, I carry it under my arm as we go back to the house.
“I can’t believe I’ve never tried this before. And I probably wouldn’t have without you talking me into it,” she admits. “I just never knew where to start.”
“You’re actually doing really great. It’s impressive.”
I think I see a hint of a blush hit her cheeks as we grab a few towels and quickly dry off, then go inside. The air conditioner is cool on my skin as I grab a few bags of chips, a couple of bottles of water, and make some ham sandwiches. We devour them pretty quickly, and Tatum is itching to go back.
“You know, my mother used to tell me that I had to wait an hour before I got in the water after eating.”
“Is there a reason?”
I laugh. “No. I think it’s something to tell kids so they don’t throw up from doing too much. I never listened and never puked. So I’m ready when you are.”
Before we return, I grab my board and grab water bottles so we have plenty to drink. The sun is out, and it's easy to get dehydrated, even if it’s not midday yet.
Tatum carries hers, and before we walk out into the ocean, I show her how to put the strap on her ankle. “It goes on the nondominant foot. That way, if you fall off, it won’t drift away and stay close to you.”
“That’s nifty,” she admits, bending down and attaching it. “You’re gonna surf with me?”
“Yep, I’ll keep watch and tell you when to stand.”
“Great,” she says, giving me a wink. There are so many unspoken words, and I can’t deny the chemistry that’s always been there. Seeing her so free and happy like this makes me want to take her on new adventures to experience things she hasn’t yet.
Once we’re waist deep, I turn and watch, then hop on my board when the opportunity arises. Tatum follows, and we paddle hard. Once the wave catches and begins to push us, I tell her to pop up.
“Now!” I call out, and do it with her. When I look over, her feet are on the board, and though she’s unsteady, she’s zooming straight across the water.
“Amazing!” I shout, meeting up with her when she jumps off.
“I didn’t release the board and fully stand until my legs were completely in place. It made it easier though I still felt wonky.”
I give her a high five but really want to pull her into my arms. I’m so proud. “That’s exactly right! Keep your upper body a little lower next time. Sometimes, that makes it easier to control until you’re more comfortable balancing.”
“Okay!” She races back out. The next few times, she falls off before fully standing, but after an hour of practicing, she’s got it down perfectly.
“Slightly bend the knees and look where you want to go,” I yell, surfing close, studying her stance. The smile on her face doesn’t falter.
After a while, we take another break, setting our boards down and sitting on the sand.
“Thank you,” she tells me, chewing on her bottom lip.
“Thank you. This has been a lot of fun.”
“It really has. I think I might have a new hobby to obsess about. I mean, I work in a surf shop after all.”
A roar of laughter escapes me. “That you do. I really think if you kept up with it, you could start riding unbroken waves.”
Her eyes widen. “And that means what exactly?”
“You don’t wait for the white water. You start off before the wave breaks and take off at an angle.”
“Will you show me?”
“Sure.” Grabbing my board, I swim into the deep water, then sit on my board and wait. In the distance, I see the perfect wave building and paddle. Before it breaks, I ride it at an angle. The board glides across the water like it’s glass, and I show off switching my positions, knowing Tatum is watching. Once I’ve ridden it to the end, I meet her on the sand.
