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ChapterTwo
Ilet the sun warm my face as the water laps over my skin. The utter perfectness of the moment makes me feel almost unworthy.
I’d never give Sugar the satisfaction of knowing she’s right, but that woman must have a sixth sense, often knowing what each of us needs before we do.
I feel the swell of the ocean around me, the moment changing from peaceful to charged as the water ebbs for a second.
Twisting so that I’m flat on my stomach, I paddle as hard as I can toward the approaching wave as it grows in size and power, waiting for that perfect moment.
Surfing can be a kamikaze sport. It’s one of the reasons I like it. Part skill, part placing your life in the hands of Mother Nature, hoping she’ll be benevolent with you. The ride is high before the inevitable crash.
The wave grows in height and depth as it rolls toward me with the furiousness of a god at war. I prepare myself for battle.
Time moves differently as anticipation hums through my bones. Everything is in slow motion as the wave builds to its crescendo with a burst of acceleration. I paddle closer before popping to my feet at just the right time. When the wave breaks, I ride it to the shoulder, feeling the spray on my face as it curls above me. There it is, the perfect barrel I’ve been waiting for this whole time. I’m going so fast I know if I fall or tag the lip, I’m going to hurt myself. I keep my focus and enjoy the smoothness of the ride before I find myself miles in the air with my heart beating out of my chest and a smile so wide it hurts my cheeks.
Afterward, when my heartbeat returns to normal and the ocean calms along with me, I admit this is as close to paradise as I’ve ever been.
When the water becomes more crowded, I paddle my way back to the beach. Once I’m in shallow enough water, I stand and grab my board. I hold it under one arm, making sure I don’t trip on the strap around my ankle.
I jog up to where I left my stuff, the sand warm beneath my feet.
The peace has been replaced with children’s laughter and the sound of muted voices as people rush to soak up the sun before flying back home.
Sliding down the zipper on my wetsuit, I let it hang from my hips. My black bikini stands out less against my now tanned skin than it did a week ago.
Grabbing my bag, I sling it over my shoulder and walk along the beachfront for a half mile before I come to the cottage I rented.
I take the steps up to the deck and place my board and bag on the table before shimmying out of my wetsuit and jog back down the steps to the outdoor shower.
It’s freezing cold, but I’m too lazy to have to clean sand from carpets indoors.
I head inside and open the wide French doors and all the windows, watching the white gauzy curtains flutter in the gentle breeze.
I change into a gray T-shirt dress that hits just above my knees and proceed to the little kitchen.
Fixing myself a light breakfast of chopped fruit, yogurt, and granola, I walk back out to the deck and pull out a chair so I can eat my breakfast and watch the ocean.
It’s so tranquil and rejuvenating that when my cell rings, the sound is so jarring that it makes me jump, dropping yogurt down the front of my dress.
I curse and hurry inside, wiping it off with the kitchen towel as I grab my cell from the counter.
“Hey, Sugar, you miss me?”
“Reese.” She says my name softly, making me sigh. Just like that, the calm shatters, and real-life seeps back in like blood oozing from a wound.
“What do you need?”
“Not over the phone. I need you to come in. I’m sorry to cut your trip short. If there were anyone else who could—”
I cut her off. “Sugar, it’s fine. I just need to book my ticket.”
“It’s taken care of. A plane will be meeting you at a private airstrip about six miles from where you’re staying.”
“Ooh, fancy. Since when did we get a plane?”
“We don’t, but a…friend has lent it to me.”
A friend, huh? I don’t ask, though. Sugar won’t tell me anything she doesn’t want to.
