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“Bima, Padang Padang?” He calls to another guy behind the counter, who grabs his keys. “We got you. We run a shuttle to the beaches for surfing. We’ll add it to your bill.”
“Thanks. I’m Jayce.” I offer my hand. I’m staying with you for the next two weeks.”
“Timo. Enjoy the surf, my friend.” Suddenly his English is better.
Bima indicates for me to follow, and we exit the hostel and go around the back into a Jeep with a small trailer attached.
“Board in the trailer. We’ll pick up a couple from the beach.”
“Cool.” I do as I’m instructed and jump in.
It’s not a long journey, and I take the time to soak up the scenery.
Bima parks, and I follow him through a gap in the rock that acts as a secret passageway down to the beach. There are a few large boulders to one side of the sand, and again, the waves look flat, but then I look beyond, and I hear the roar of waves crashing farther out to sea.
“How long?” I ask Bima.
“Few hours. Meet on beach.” He points to an umbrella where I hope he’ll be waiting for me. There are more people around, this time with surfboards, and for the first time since arriving, the adrenalin kicks in.
I race into the water and navigate out towards the bigger waves. As I get closer, I realise they are a hell of a lot bigger than I first thought from the shore. My heart kicks up, but my smile is back on my face as I attack the waves and push through.
Each wave I catch feels like a monster I need to fight, and I spend more time falling from my board than I do riding the waves, but it’s bliss. The rush as I tip in and feel the white horses chasing my board is such a high.
There are a dozen other surfers out with me. All of them better at catching and riding the bigger waves. Hoots and cheers rise above the sound of the water, and it feels… good.
I’ve never wrangled a barrel before, and it seems I still need to work on it, but this, right here, is why I wanted to travel the world.
After what I guess is a few hours, I head back in and check with Bima. He’s waiting for a couple who are still out in the surf, so I sit on the sand and watch.
The wind has picked up, and the waves have started to get even bigger. More and more people have come down to the beach.
“Hey. Saw you out there. New here?” The guy looks older than me and has an Irish accent.
“Yeah. First day.”
“You’re good. What do you think about the waves?”
“Oh, man. They’re a rush.”
“You sticking around? They’re due to get bigger by tonight. Could be fun.”
“My ride is taking me back, so I’ll have to pass.”
“Well, the weather’s looking good for the next few days. Name’s Finnan. Be good to make a new friend out here.” He holds out his hand, and I shake it.
“Sure. I’m staying at the Drifter Hostel up the road. I’m Jayce.”
“Nice to meet you, Jayce.”
Bima takes me back with a couple of the others staying at the hostel. I’m famished and ask Timo for a safe recommendation for food.
With a full belly, I come back to my room and crash.
I’m here. Finally. I can’t help but think about home before falling asleep.
A vision of Zennor invades my mind and mixes with the blue of the ocean and the burning white of the sun as I drift off into oblivion.
The next day, I catch my ride down to the beach with Bima again and make sure I take water and some food. Finnan’s on the beach, but so are about twenty other guys.
