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My feet are icicles by the time I get back to the cottage, and I race through the swill off routine before heading into the warmth.
Everyone’s still in the house, watching a film in the front room.
“I’m back. Grabbing a shower,” I call before going straight upstairs.
The salty smell of bacon cooking wafts through the house when I finish. I follow my nose and head to the kitchen where Mum has a bacon sarnie waiting for me.
“Ahh, you’re a lifesaver.”
“Well, who’s going to look after you when you’re travelling? You can’t surf on an empty stomach.
“I’ll manage,” I mumble around a bite of sandwich. “What’s the plan for the day?” I ask before stuffing the rest of the sandwich in my mouth.
“Well, the boys aren’t prepared to go out in the rain. So, it’s a quiet day until the weather breaks.”
“Great. I’m heading back out.”
“In this?”
“Yeah. Why not.” I smile, kiss her on the cheek, and make sure I have my wallet and coat.
The rain is a little lighter as I head back down to the café. There aren’t many people when I step inside, but I also can’t see the girl behind the counter. I approach and look at the menu, opting for a hot chocolate today.
“Hey, do you know the girl working yesterday? Is she here today?” I ask as I place my order. The woman looks at me and cocks her head to the side.
“She’ll be in for the lunch shift.” She gives me a half-smile before fixing my order.
“Cheers.” I take my drink and set it down.
The seat is next to the glass windows and gives me a clear view of the beach. The waves are on the turn, and my mind skips to the loose plan I have for travelling in a few weeks.
Living on the south coast, we never get waves like these, but that’s never stopped me from wanting to surf bigger and better. Saving all my money for boards and wetsuits has been part of my life since I was little. And, looking back, my folks have been as supportive as they can afford. Nothing comes cheap, it seems, when you’re surfing.
Surf videos and magazines have fuelled my addiction, but nothing is like getting in the water to do it myself.
But I want to see the world—surf the world.
“Can I get you a refill?”
I turn and look up at the girl I’m waiting for. She has a cautious smile on her face as if she’s not sure she should be happy about me being back here.
“Have you started your shift?”
“I’m a little early.” She looks back at the counter and seems to be having some sort of non-verbal conversation with the woman who served me.
“Hot chocolate?” I ask, standing and enjoying the fact that I’m a good few inches taller than her.
“Okay, why not.”
I grin and head to order our drinks.
“I’ll bring them over,” the woman offers.
“Thanks.”
“So, the surfer isn’t surfing.” She looks out towards the waves.
“Already had my fix today.”
