“Well, he did ask me to go again next Friday,” Nora said softly as a bit of a blush crept up her face.
Chloe gave her an exaggerated, wide-eyed look and patted her cheek.
They soon began to pass through small villages and the surroundings changed entirely. Ancient, half-timbered dwellings with their oak frames and plaster infill, added to the cultural charm of the region. Nora commented how even new houses were being built in that old style and Chloe explained how the building codes were very strict about preserving traditions.
Rolling hillsides were dotted with vast vineyards at rest for the winter. The bare vines stood in neat, endless rows, their twisted silhouettes etched against the sky.
Nora shot photos through the window and Chloe was absorbed on her phone before they pulled into Gare Centrale, a ten-minute walk from the centre of Strasbourg.
“Oh yes. I remember this so well,” Nora exclaimed as they strolled through the district of La Petite France, with its charming architecture from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, winding canals, and cobbled streets. It once was a district for tanners, fishermen, and millers.
Almost every house was decorated to the nines with lights, carvings, tinsel, wreaths, and even teddy bears.
“What’s with the bears?” Nora asked.
“I honestly don’t know. I’ve even googled them and there doesn’t seem to be a clear explanation. But as you can see, they do love them here!” Chloe said. “Do you remember that some of this was rebuilt after the war? I’m always so impressed at how true to the original architecture and city plan they stayed. The place has such a unique history through two thousand years starting with the Romans in 12 BCE. It’s all part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site now, preserved forever.”
“Thank goodness,” Nora said. “Imagine if this had been redeveloped in a modern fashion. I love how France preserves its history and culture. Wow! I had forgotten how many canals there are! It’s even more beautiful in winter.”
Chloe nodded. “Too bad there isn’t much snow yet.”
Holiday lights had been strung across bridges and along balconies of the houses that lined the water. A dreamlike mist rose from the surface of the canals as white swans glided by, seemingly unbothered by the morning chill.
Chloe took them on a slight detour so Nora could see the famous Ponts Couverts from the thirteenth century. Originally wooden bridges with roofs, centuries later their structures had been replaced by stone bridges. The three stone towers fortifying each of them also dated from the thirteenth century and were covered with intricate carvings.
They paused often so Nora could take photos. The streets were filling with tourists, and she sometimes had to wait to get her shot.
“’Tis the season,” Chloe said. “Today is going to be busy, but fun! And you will practise your French too. I’m proud of how you’re doing.”
* * *
Nora and Chloe used a view of the unique bell tower of Notre-Dame de Strasbourg as their guide and reached the main square before long. The pinkish sandstone cathedral, richly adorned with sculptures and flying buttresses, along with the elaborate lace-like openwork of the spire was breathtaking.
“I’d forgotten how ornate and gorgeous it is,” Nora said, taking it all in and shooting photos from all angles.
“It’s the second tallest after Rouen. Victor Hugo described it as ‘prodigy of the gigantic and the delicate,’” Chloe told Nora. “Do you remember the stained-glass windows inside dating back to the twelfth and fourteenth centuries? A tour guide told us they had been removed and hidden from the Nazis during World War Two.”
“Right! I remember we watched the movieThe Monuments Mentogether after our October visit.”
“Good memory, Maman! Now let’s go inside before we hit the market stalls … and we have to get to the Christkindelsmärik, the oldest!”
They lingered inside the light-filled cathedral, admiring the vibrant colors of the windows and the stunning organ and artwork. “Let’s stay and watch that amazing Astronomical Clock,” Nora suggested. “It’s almost twelve thirty, and I’ve never forgotten the show it puts on with the procession of the apostles and Christ and that mechanical rooster.”
Chloe laughed. “Yes, we must hear the cock crow. Let’s get a spot now because quite a crowd gathers.”
“Great! And then let’s give those 322 steps to the top of the tower a pass,” Nora suggested.
“Oh darn, are you sure?” Chloe said, with a small pout. “We didn’t climb them last time either, and the view is to die for.”
“I’m sorry, but I’m getting warm just walking around in here, and by the time the clock performs, I’ll be boiling. In fact, I need to take my jacket off while we watch.”
Chloe’s pout faded. “I seem to remember I showed you photos of the spectacular view on my phone the last time you didn’t want to climb up … and you were much younger then,” she teased.
“Ha, cheeky girl,” Nora said. “We can look at them again if you like, on the way home.”
After the clock’s performance, they both breathed a sigh of relief back outside in the fresh air.
They had dressed for a crisp day, so were fine taking their time browsing the diverse offerings at the stalls spread throughout the streets. Every aspect of the experience filled the air.
