Aromas of cinnamon, cloves, and orange wafted from vats of mulled wine. Scents of spicy gingerbread, roasted chestnuts, and other exotic baked goods floated out from stalls and combined with the songs of carolers sauntering the streets. Friendly vendors offered samples of bredeles—quaint, traditional bite-size Christmas cookies. Church bells chimed on the hour. Laughter and conversation were everywhere as sellers called out their wares.
Nora stopped from time to time, exhilarated by the surroundings. She breathed in deeply, closed her eyes, and imagined the same experience through the centuries.
“Mom, are you feeling okay?”
“Never better,” Nora replied. “In fact, I was thinking how I could write about this. It is so vibrant and alive. It’s impossible not to feel festive … and it’s also making me very hungry!”
Chloe laughed. “The more times I hear you say you want to write, the happier I am. See, I knew coming to France would break your writer’s block. There’s just so much to inspire you.”
Chloe agreed she was hungry too and led them to a special place she knew located on a narrow side street.
“Olivier always insists we eat here. He loves the food and the ambiance.”
The dark, wood-paneled walls and all the carved wooden chairs, tables, and booths showed an obvious Germanic influence, as did the beamed ceiling.
They ordered sauerkraut and German sausages, which they washed down with a pichet of local Gewürztraminer wine. A slice of Munster cheese was a must to finish off the meal.
“This place is so rustic and definitely feels like we are somewhere different from Paris,” Nora said.
“That’s another reason I love living in this country. You can experience such different aspects of culture without going very far. There’s always an adventure waiting nearby. So as much as I love Canada and the life we had there, I wouldn’t trade living here.”
Nora gazed lovingly at her daughter. “There’s nothing better than seeing your child find happiness and satisfaction in life. It makes my heart sing.”
“Well, I wish the same for you. You have a lot of living still to do.” Chloe reached over and took Nora’s hand, giving her a stern smile. “Don’t give up on life, Mom. Don’t just settle for what’s comfortable.” She paused for a moment and then added, “Mon Dieu! Now I sound like a mom!”
* * *
After lunch, they walked to the nearby Place Kléber to see the famous Grand Sapin. Each year, the town looked for the tallest tree, always around a hundred feet tall, and brought it to this square for the Christmas markets. Adorned with a thousand lights and beautiful decorations, it was a sight to behold, even during the day. The square was filled with stalls overflowing with every festive item imaginable, tempting to even the most serious Christmas Scrooge.
“Of course, I need to buy a tree decoration for each of the Girls back home. The problem is making a decision. These are all so sweet!” Nora said. Finally, she made her first purchases. “Oh, and they would love these tea towels too!”
Once she began shopping, it was difficult to stop. The variety and excellent quality of the items for sale were not to be denied.
At one of the last stalls they visited, she chose some colorful handmade decorations as gifts for Olivier’s family and a few for Chloe and herself. She put them in her tote bag and announced she was not making any more purchases.
Chloe snorted. “Highly unlikely. We still have to get to Christkindelsmärik, the oldest heart of the markets here. From 1570! Imagine!”
When they reached their objective in Place Broglie, Nora stood and stared at their surroundings with her mouth open. Chloe poked her in the ribs. “Oh, just around three hundred stalls spreading out from here. Do you still say you are through?”
“How can I resist? What if I never get back here?” Nora muttered, as they dove into the crowd. “But I’m just looking … admiring … I don’t need anything…”
But it appeared there was something she needed. A foot-tall, hand-carved Santa painted in such imaginative detail with vivid colors, Nora could not resist it. Nor could she resist more Christmas tea towels and a table cloth.
The vendor was thrilled with her purchases. She put them in a large, colorful, embroidered cloth bag, which she gifted to Nora and refused to listen to her protests.
“Wow, this was so kind of that woman. The Santa is definitely a necessary addition to your Christmas trunk, Mom! You have to promise you’ll put him out every year from now on.”
Nora gave her a noncommittal nod and moved on to another stall, but her heart was bursting with the generosity of spirit that she felt everywhere. She hugged Chloe, saying, “It’s so special to be sharing all this with you.”
They bought matching knit hats, adorned with pompoms and traditional Alsace embroidery. “We’ll wear them in Provence!” Chloe said, choosing a bright-colored beanie for Olivier. And they bought socks. Socks for everyone in numerous colors and unique, eye-catching patterns. Plus a sweet, glass-blown angel for Marie-Louise. And an irresistible Christmas-themed collar for Atticus.
“Let’s get a couple of jars of Nut’Alsace, Mom! It’s even better than the regular Nutella,” Chloe said.
By the end of the afternoon, they gave in to fatigue and their bags had become heavy. Before heading back to the station, they sat on a terrace by the cathedral and watched skaters gliding around to the sounds of traditional and contemporary holiday music.
Chloe ordered mugs of creamy hot chocolate topped with Chantilly from a nearby kiosk. “We can’t leave without having this,” she said as she brought them back to their table. The cream melted into the sweet beverage as they sipped. “No wonder Alsace is the champion chocolate-exporting region in France.”
They toasted with their mugs and applauded wandering buskers as they relaxed. Chloe commented that Nora seemed to be rediscovering her Mrs. Claus persona thanks to all her purchases.
