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“There is nothing to talk about,” she said.
“But why don’t you want your designs to be used?” Alexandra asked as Izzie stepped out into the street. “Your sister and Miss Reid said that your sketches are perfect.”
“They were wrong. Mum knew best, and she said they weren’t right. ‘Frocks for film stars’ she used to call them.”
“What woman doesn’t want to feel a little chic right now?” asked Alexandra with a cautious smile. “Besides, your sister wouldn’t have chosen those sketches if she didn’t think they were right for your clientele.”
A part of her deep down in a secret corner of her heart wanted to believe that her friend was right, but she couldn’t escape the echo of her mother’s words. Izzie wasn’t ready. She wasn’t experienced enough. She didn’t know the first thing about designing for real women. The sketches were just a fantasy. They would never sell. Mrs. Shelton’s was founded on the backs of good, practical garments.
“My mother built this business from nothing. She was right,” she said firmly.
Alexandra chewed her lip, but then nodded. “If you say so.”
Izzie gave a sharp nod. “I do.”
Part III
17 DESIGNERS SHOW UTILITY SCHEME COLLECTION TO FASHION TRADES
Seventeen of London’s top designers showed their latest designs Friday in a fashion show meant to celebrate the simplicity of the Board of Trade’s recent austerity regulations.
“We are determined to show that the Civilian Clothing Order, known as CC41, is a challenge that we are more than ready to embrace,” said Mr. Maxwell Shepperton of the House of Shepperton, Mayfair. “Rationing need not mean a dreary wardrobe.”
The recent adoption of these new rationing rules as part of the Making-Up of Civilian Clothing (Restrictions) Order means that everyone from the humble neighborhood dressmaker to the most well-known of fashion houses must follow a series of restrictions meant to save valuable cloth. The Board of Trade believes that this could conserve millions of yards of cotton and wool for the war effort.
A-line skirts, blouses with simple darts, and military-inspired jackets proved to be the most popular silhouettes, with each designer showing one ensemble. Several designers set themselves the extra challenge of proving the versatility and ingenuity of their designs such as reversible jackets to create two outfits for the coupons of one.
Designers also showed that utility cloth need not be bland, with the new simplicity of silhouettes perfectly highlighting patterns such as stripes, spots, and other bold patterns.
“We have no doubt that the ladies of Britain will embrace these designs, feeling well-dressed while saving their coupons,” said Mr. Shepperton. “We are all trying to do our bit.”
—The London Lady, 6 April 1942
6 April 1942
Dear Izzie,
I am more sorry than I can say that I did not write to you to ask your permission before using your sketches. I truly did think that it would be more of a disappointment if I’d told you that I found them and Miss Reid had not been able to work from them. I can see now that I was wrong.
Please believe me when I tell you I was only thinking about the success of the shop.
Yours,
Sylvia
10 April 1942
Dear Izzie,
I imagine that you have now settled into your new assignment at RAF Horsham St Faith. I hope that you and the rest of the women in your unit are able to stay safe. I think of you every time I hear an air raid siren and worry that your work as a WAAF leaves you more vulnerable than most.
Things are as they ever were at Mrs. Shelton’s Fashions. William rang the other day to find out how you are and ask after the shop, and Mrs. Reynolds continues to glare at me every time she sees me in the road. I’ve decided that both of these events are reassuring in their consistency.
The only real change is Miss Reid. Without me needing to ask, she has offered to take on the responsibility of opening the shop each morning, and she no longer complains as loudly if I need to run out for an appointment in the afternoon. She has stopped telling me that every new order I take will be impossible. (Before making the impossible happen, of course.) Instead, she asks when more work will come, and she even has ideas. I believe she took the Board of Trade’s restrictions personally and is determined that they won’t get the better of us.
I do have some good news to share. We had our first commission for an officer’s uniform the other day. We are making the newly promoted Subaltern Vera Garson from the Auxiliary Territorial Service her first properly tailored dress uniform. She could not have been more delighted when she came in to have Miss Reid take her measurements.
Yours,
